Some ideas: 1) Assign minimum data. In other words, use the absolute minimum of stats needed to run your NPCs. Unlike characters, you aren't going to modifying or calculating stuff very often on NPC sheets. For 5e, here's all you absolutely need: - Attack/damage roll. I recommend using inline rolls. Assuming Atk is the bonus to hit, bar3 contains all character's AC, and Dmg is the die roll of damage, you can use: /emas @{selected|token_name} rolls [[d20+@{selected|Atk}]]|[[d20+@{selected|Atk}]] to hit vs @{target|token_name}'s AC @{target|bar3} and deals [[@{selected|Dmg}]] damage. Set it as a token action and then assign a token as a default token for drag-and-drop functionality. The two d20 rolls are for advantage/disadvantage, ignore the second roll if it doesn't apply. - Hit points. I use bar2 (the middle one). - AC. I use bar3 (right one). - Initiative. I use a stat called Init and have a global token macro that rolls based on it. My macro is /w gm @{selected|token_name} rolls [[d20+@{selected|Init} &{tracker}]] initiative. The reason it whispers it to yourself is so people won't see a roll for creatures on the GM layer. - Proficiency modifier. This is used for the next part. - Stat modifiers. I usually just have a Str, Dex, Con, Int, Wis, Cha set to the modifier alone. I then have global macros for rolling saves and skills. The macros are something like /emas @{selected|token_name} rolls [[d20+@{selected|Dex}]]|[[d20+@{selected|Dex}]] (plus [[@{selected|Prof}]]) dexterity save. This leaves you with about eight macros below your character, plus one or more attacks or special abilities for the token actions, and covers most situations. 2) Utilize "tiled" sets. There are several really good ones one the marketplace, choose one or more that you like. Tiled sets allow you to make virtually any layout you want with a little creativity. There are a couple of sets that don't bother with walls, which may seem like a weakness, but if you plan on using dynamic lighting will let you make your dungeons even faster (typically walls are hidden by DL lines). 3) Keep it simple...yeah, that. Related to #2, keep in mind most of these games were designed with either no physical objects or some graph paper and cardboard printouts in their design. You aren't playing a video game, you're still essentially playing a roleplaying game. Sure, you can spend a ton of time making a beautiful dungeon with accurate shadows and tons of atmosphere, and that's great, but consider how much time you're losing making a compelling and fun campaign (and avoiding GM burnout). I try to take a minimal approach to dungeon design. Even poor graphics will work if you use a good description. A fantastic, and in my opinion underutilized, tool are the built-in drawing tools (especially polygon). Instead of wasting time searching for the perfect fountain for your puzzle, just draw a blue circle with a grey line around it, and maybe some little darker lines to indicate ripples. When they enter, and you say "You see a fountain, blah blah blah" your players are probably not going to care about the Paintbrush art...they're going to be trying to solve your puzzle. Also, once you get the hang on drawings, you can make things on the fly; I've had great luck with creating broken debris and rubble in response to player actions on the fly that would have been really difficult trying to find in the art library. Another great part part about using drawing tools for your maps is that you can literally copy and paste them to the dynamic lighting layer, align them on top of each other, and save a half hour or so of work. I had a literal facepalm when I figured that out. You can change the background of the map, and use big squares to change the floor color. I usually use a combination of tiles and drawings but sometimes I'll create entire maps (especially for maps involving sci-fi, modern, or planar areas, as it's hard to find tiles for them) using nothing but the drawing tools. You don't have to be a master artist, and remember that "Shift" (snap to grid) is your friend for making walls and hallways. I hope that helps. Good luck!