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house rule recomendations.

I made this so that anyone on Roll20 could put in some of the house rules they play with so that other people could try them out.
For the first house rule, I'll put one in for D20 movement, if you make movement for a medium size humanoid 10+STR+DEX It makes movement more vairied from person to person. You can scale it for different sizes too, Large would be 15+STR+DEX, small 5+STR+DEX. (Dwarves, Halflings and gnomes don't get the 10 part as they are naturally slower) An alternate to this would be to subtract 20 from their land speed and use that as a bae to add STR and DEX to, Human gets 10+STR+DEX, Dwarf 0+STR+DEX.
Here is something I use for Critical hits: When you score a critical threat with your weapon and confirmed it as a critical hit, damage is calculated as max initial damage and roll the extra die. In other words if you have a PC using a long sword a crit would be 8 (max damage for long sword) , then roll the other D8 and add that to the original max damage (8) for your total crit roll. By doing this you will always roll at least 1 more point of damage then rolling max damage on a non-critical hit.
I'll throw in one that I use. Players can perform actions with up to 3 other players, (4 at the max) such as checks, if the players have +-3 of the skill. (Meaning that someone with 10 streetwise can only help someone with 12 or 8, ect). The more people that contribute, the more likely that it will either succeed, or cause mayhem. With two people, I make a separate roll on a D10, if the roll is 1-2, then it fails, and it basically turns into a critical fail. but, if it is an 9-10, then it succeeds. With 3, it is 1-4; 7-10. And 4 is 1-5, 5-10. So it turns into a question of chance. It could be a bit more balanced, but when it fails, it fails hard.
My favorite house rule: Ties go to the defender. Makes ties that much simpler.
Does anyone else have any house rules they'd like to share?
D&D House Rule - Rolling a 1 on an attack is a fumble, fumble can either give any enemy attacking you a +2 (or +5) to the next attack against you, or it can lower your AC by 2 (or 5) until your next turn. This represents your sword getting stuck on your last attack, a slight slip in your footwork, or something similar resulting in your slight inability to protect yourself as well as normal. I started using this because I thought it added a little more variation to combat and because I hated the other over the top ridiculous fumble rules that I saw other places. You are Heroes not the three stooges. General House rule but still used a lot in D&D too - I don't like book keeping elements to games and try to avoid them as much as possible. I don't make range characters buy arrows and keep track of how many they have, instead I have them buy "quivers of arrows" which cost the same as 20 arrows. Any character can carry 2 Quivers of arrows on there person. While in combat if a roll of 1 is rolled for a ranged attack (or a similarly terrible roll for other systems) then the character has not only missed the attack but also realized that that was there last arrow in the quiver. If the Character has another quiver on them then it is just a half-action to get that quiver to be ready for use and you continue from there. If they do not have another quiver on them then they must make a perception (or equivalent) check with a DC 15 to gather some arrows to fill there quiver again, I usually make this a full action. After combat a character can spend some time to refill there quivers again with arrows around the field unless there is an obvious reason that they can't (they where shooting over a canyon or something). Enemies no longer drop numbers of arrows but drop a quiver of arrows if they have one. A Range character can run out of arrows in this way once every other combat. I thought this rule still added that dynamic moment when the archer realizes that he has no more arrows but gets rid of keeping track of them all the time. Just two that I use. I have a lot more but they start to get more setting specific from there.
I have two that I've used: 1) Paladins don't have to be Lawful, but have to be Good, and Chaotic is a case-by-case basis. This is to prevent the Lawful Stupid Paladin behavior mostly, but it also allows a bit more variation in paladins. 2) Act as if every HD roll rolled max possible. This is mostly to make it easy for newer players to calculate their stats. This applies to monsters and NPCs, too, so it's not unbalanced. It does make combat take a lot longer, though, so it's not something I would use when I want to do a lot of role playing, and not a lot of combat.
No racial ability bonuses or penalties. Humans don't get more feats than other races. The intent is to make race a role-play choice, not a build choice. No +1 to ability scores at 4th, 8th, etc. Instead, the point buy budget goes up at those levels, and values are set for ability scores of 19, 20, etc. The intent is to lessen the degree of the advantage of SAD over MAD. Feat swap: if you take a feat and later get the exact same feat from your class levels, the class-based feats becomes an open bonus feat at that level.