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Adventure House Rules and Other Miscellaneous Information:

Various House Rules & other information is posted here. Modules in this campaign so far have been: Up next: ?? I1: Dwellers of the Forbidden City X8: Drums on Fire Mountain X1: Isle of Dread, N1: Against the Cult of the Reptile God 39 Sessions for "DD3: Fortress of the Yuan-Ti", November 12th - , October 5th, 2017 (3 prior sessions before the 21st of Jan., were for character making) 7 Sessions for "Mystery at Port Greely", September 18th - November 6th, 2016 1 Brief Session for "Mystery At Port Greely", September 18, ~ 1 hour 9 Sessions for "RL1: Craft Dungeon of Reynaldo Lazendry", July 23rd - September 18th, 2016 5 Sessions for "Buried Zikurat", June 18th, 2016 - July 17th, 2016 5 Sessions & 30 minutes for "JD1: Cess-Pit of the Bog-Mother", May 14th, 2016 - June 18th, 2016 5 Sessions for "DNH1: The Lost Temple of Forgotten Evil", April 9th, 2015 - May 8th, 2016 1 Session for "DD3: Fortress of the Yuan-Ti", April 2, 2015 - party will venture back to this one later ! 19 Sessions for "DD2: The Sinister Spire", November 7th, 2015 - March 26th, 2016 13 Sessions for "DD1: Barrow of the Forgotten King"; August 15th, 2015 - Oct. 31st, 2015 2 Sessions & 20 minutes) for "CG1: Lair of Largash the Lurid"; August 1st, 2015 - Aug 15th, 2015 3 sessions for "Scourge of the Howling Horde"; July 11th - July 26th, 2015 7 Sessions for "C3: Lost Island of Castanamir; May 10th - June 27th, 2015 11 Sessions for "DCC24: Legend of the Ripper"/"DF30: A Village with No Name"; Feb. 21st - May 10th, 2015 15 sessions for "1A: The Inheritance; November 8th, 2014 - Feb. 14th, 2015
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Roleplay Group Social Guidelines (Credit goes out to mithrandir138 for this) Purpose: The purpose of this Social Guidelines is to ensure that everyone participating is respectful to one another and everyone has a good time.  We all want players to remain focused and to actively participate in the game during play (meaning: we want the story and shared environments to evolve as a result of player actions.) The Game: The primary goals of this game are to: 1. Have a good time. 2. Collectively create a memorable and immersive experience for all involved. The System and Setting: We will be starting the campaign using Advanced Dungeons & Dragons 1st and 2nd Edition.  The game will be set in the Twelve Kingdoms from Fire Born Games, Inc. (Formerly Mischief Inc) Though currently you are on the other side of the continent right now.  If you would like a particular non-TSR deity or to bring in any other details from another setting, please present them to the GM.  All details are subject to GM approval. It's best to assume that we will be playing a game “ In our own version of the setting ” but we do not want to make it a “kitchen sink setting.” Currently these are the only supplements in play: Core Rule & Supplement Set: 1st and 2nd Edition Advanced Dungeons & Dragons • Any New spells/cantrips/orisons listed in the 3rd Edition to 5th Edition Dungeons and Dragons • Any New Character Level-Up Abilities mentioned in 3rd through 5th Edition • A Slightly modified version of the Thieving Table that combines 1st /2nd Edition to an extent • House Rules  Communication and Scheduling: We will be using scheduled Live Gaming Sessions on Roll20.net to communicate when game sessions or other “get togethers” are happening.  We have agreed on a game starting time of 8:00 PM EDT or 8PM ET time (depending on season), every Sunday evening.  The GM will make a concerted effort to schedule events in advance. Please make a concerted effort to be timely in your planning and use the responses under “Are you going” (in this game simply post to the "Game Attendance: Are You Going to Be There?", thread or Message the DM), to communicate your intent to Attend or Not. Please use “Maybe” sparingly.  The GM will use these responses to plan and prepare the session.  If there is not a quorum of players who have responded “Yes” for a scheduled game night by the preceding Sunday (in this game you have until 24 hours prior to game-time so, 8pm Saturday),  it is likely that the game will be rescheduled to another day or postponed.  Please note however, that the game will go on even if only the DM & One Player wishes to play for any given session. This ensures that the game story continues to flow & that absentee-ism (or Trolling), will not hinder the game’s progress. If the Dungeon Master can not make a session due to an emergency, special occasion/holiday, vacation, natural disaster or power outage, another DM can take over that night’s gaming session if need be and possible. Style of Play/Goals (beyond just simple “fun”): 1.To create cooperative, a combined, “Theater of the Mind”-style play (which means, no miniatures/tokens) with Tactical Combat (Miniatures/Tokens and Maps used): Dice rolls aren’t just simple pass/fails. You should narrate what happens on the successes, the GM narrates what happens on the failures (or rolls on a table), or may ask you to describe the failure.  Narrations should be as cinematic as possible, and humorous details are of course permitted regardless of the tone of the scene/game. 2. To strive towards a story- and character-driven game with the use of tactical-combat-driven game. 3. To ensure that players have agency: the GM doesn’t rule all aspects of the environment -- meaning: players are permitted to add things/aspects to the environment (within reason) to help scenes play out. (example: Good: “I grab a tankard of ale from the table next to me and whack the bard on the side of the head with it!” Bad: “Is there a tankard of ale on the table I am standing next to?”) Technical Requirements: (Since this is a Text Based game you do not need to worry about voice and video): • A broadband Internet connection is required, along with a camera (as you wish) and microphone (as you wish). • Headphones are required to prevent echo. (If using Voice) • A computer must be used to participate ( tablets, phones, etc, can be used for displaying Character Sheet Information ) - Windows, Mac, and Linux are all welcome. • You need a roll20.net account (mostly for dice, maps, tokens, character sheets and handouts, as well as to see text posted area descriptions, & the various text posted character / npc role-play interactions) It is recommended you use Roll20.net’s own Video/Voice feature, if you also wish to to do that in game. However, players can agree to use Google+ hangout, Skype, C3, PalTalk, Zoom, Tiny Chat or Discord, as well. Guidelines to think about to ensure you are respectful to other players: • Be on time for the game. • Please make use of the mute function when you aren’t actively participating in a scene and there are other sounds occurring in your local environment. • Please avoid using your phone, texting, web browsing, reading, watching videos/TV/movies/etc. during the game. Everyone is here to play the game, you should be, too. • Please refrain from chatting/instant messaging outside of the group during the game. (Unless it is an emergency, of course.) • Please do not eat food unless you are muted. (Beverages are permitted.)  This means: It is OK to be “ finishing a meal or having a snack ”, while the game is happening.  • Give more than 24 hours notice if you are going to be absent. • If the normal, scheduled time no longer works for you, please say something. It’s unfair to the other players for them to expect you to be there and you aren’t. People understand that you have a life/job outside of the game, please let them know if your attendance should not be expected because of another obligation. • Communicate and be social (even metagame) with others players using our forum threads for the game, using the chatbox or via any means of Video/Voice Chatting such as a Discord or even a FaceBook group. We should foster fellowship between players and not forget about the game when it is time for the weekly session to begin. • In conclusion: simply, don’t be an asshole to the other players in the game. (If you need a definition of what this means, feel free to ask.) Player Expectations: * New Players will be required to make a new Character sheet for themselves. This new character will then be introduced into the game when: A) The character you picked up (if it was needed), that is already live and active in the adventure group dies (Players come and go from the game on a weekly basis so there will be ABSOLUTELY NO POOFING IN & OUT of characters (i.e. Playing pieces/tokens/character sheets) from the game. All characters remain until they die. Period. B) If the new character you pick up is not to your liking, simply try to get them killed in some fashion. C) You will need to wait for situations to be right for the DM to be able to introduce a new character, i.e., the party returns to a nearby village or perhaps the DM can work in that the new character escaped from someone, or perhaps you are the survivor from another adventure group etc. Also, your attendance to the gaming sessions factor into this. D) This will ensure that the party will continue to have access to ALL of the treasure  and coinage found while adventuring because some link will be maintained. E) Everyone is expected to play and contribute to party decision making and help each other, as always and usual, and in a timely manner. There will be no 'Just Watching' the game, as you have Twitch for that! F) The Adventure Party Leader / Caller is rotated each week, going in Roll20 Nickname Order. * You must be cordially communicative to All Posts and Messages made by the DM and Players in game, and respond to them in a timely fashion (within 18 hours. Failure to do so will result in getting booted from the game. This is being done due to trolling and people joining the game, making it look full and never responding to anyone or even playing the game!  * You must actively participate in the game and interact with other players and make any actions and moves during your turn in a timely fashion. Not just watching it, or you will be booted from the game. * You should have your character sheet updated in the agreed upon format before the game session.  * You must actively fill in all needed information into the character sheet provided and you must routinely update the character sheet as needed, such as the addition or depletion of food, arrows, spell components, spell use, etc.  * DM’s provide a ‘Paper’ version of the sheet (under the Bio/Info tab), that you fill in and can then copy/paste into a program like MS Word to then print out and use during the game, which is helpful since you could readily update the paper sheet, then update Roll20's in game character sheet when time permits or after the gaming sessions. The main purpose of this game is to have fun. If you are not having fun, you should communicate this to the GM so that it can be remedied immediately.  Any reason for discontent with the game is up for discussion, even items in this Social Guidelines. You should allow the GM a chance to remedy the situation before quitting the group outright. You should make a concerted effort to speak “in character” during play. Asking and answering questions, etc. should be done “in character” when it is appropriate.  For example: PCs speak to other PCs and NPCs “in character,” and NPCs speak to PCs “in character” -- you should try to act as if the GM isn’t there, you should try to speak to him as if he is the NPC’s within the world. No Rules Lawyering: You should try to keep any debate regarding the rules, GM rulings, or any system details outside of game play (meaning: save them until the session is over.)  However, questions “out of character” about rules you are unclear about are certainly permitted, because I think most of us are new to the system.  You are encouraged to take notes.  During the game, ask yourself the following questions: 1. If this was a novel, would I read it or recommend it to others? 2. If this was something I would be watching, would it keep my interest? Would I be a fan? 3. Is my character involved in the story? If they were to die would it have any consequence to the story? [The Following credited to Lady Gygax for calling out the trolling that goes on!] WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR: 1) Players that respond to their adventure within 18 hours of the DM's or Players' last post. 2) Players that respond to the DM's and Players' Personal Messages within 18 hours. 3) Players who want to Stay in a Long Term Campaign. 4) Players that respect the DM's Authority (which is Absolute). 5) Players that enjoy Roleplaying their character. 6) Players that enjoy Dungeon Exploration. 7) Players that don't mind if their Character Dies (as they will simply make Another). 8) Players that accept Encounters are Not Balanced. 9) Players that Look for Other Solutions than Fighting. 10) Players that are Heroes, not Evil Uncooperative Selfish Backstabbing Traitors. 11) Players that want their Character to Grow over Time from a Roleplaying Aspect. 12) Established Roll20 Profiles with Lots of Hours, Lot of Achievements, Lots of interaction with other players, and Meaningful Descriptions. WHAT I AM NOT LOOKING FOR:  1) Players who are so busy with their schedule that they cannot respond within 18 hours of the last DM's or Players' Post. 2) Players who don't respond to Personal Messages within 18 hours (or just flat out Ignore Them). 3) Players who just want to "Try It Out" and then Leave. Players who Leave Suddenly Without Warning. Players who have No Intention of Staying Long Term in the Campaign. 4) Players who like to argue with the DM, thinking they can prove the DM wrong by using the Rules as a Weapon (Rules Lawyer). Players who think they are Above the DM's Authority. 5) Players that Just Want to Fight, who Hate Roleplaying their Character. 6) Players who hate Dungeon Grinding, Killing Monsters, Solving Puzzles, and Evading Traps. 7) Players who Ragequit when the Dice Do Not Favor Them, resulting in their Character's Death. 8) Players who Demand Every Encounter be Perfectly Balanced for their Character. 9) Players that just want to Roll Dice to Kill Monsters Without Thinking At All. 10) Players who want to play Evil Characters who Hate being Part of a Party and Act Only for Themselves. 11) Players who think that a Bunch of Statistics on their Character Sheet defines their Character. 12) Brand New Roll20 Profiles with Barely Any Hours, Barely Any Achievements, and Limited Interaction with Other Players on Roll20. 13) Players that only want to watch and never play the game. (You have Twitch for that!). Everyone expects you to participate and give input, since you are joining to Play the Game!
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Use of Torch or Lantern Light: Quote: How far does a torch let you see in reality? Consider this snippet from a Scientific American Supplement:  "Torches consist of a bundle of loosely twisted threads which has been immersed in a mixture formed of two parts, by weight, of beeswax, eight of resin, and one of tallow. In warm, dry weather, these torches when lighted last for two hours when at rest, and for an hour and a quarter on a march.  A good light is obtained by spacing them 20 or 30 yards apart." This indicates a bare minimum radius of visible illumination of 30 feet (half of 20 yards), maybe 45 feet (half 30 yards); possibly even 60 or 90 feet (20 or 30 yards itself) depending on how liberal the above usage of "good" is taken. ========================================== In the game, you can see in a 15 feet radius, after 15 & up to 30 ft things will be in shadowy outline. The torches will last as stated above in the quote. Use of Lanterns: In the game, you can see up to 30 feet radius, after 30 & up to 60 ft, things will be in shadowy outline. The Oil typically last for 2 hours.
Critical Hits &amp; Critical Miss Tables: Note: This is now implemented as API Scripts for use in game.&nbsp; We are not doing it the way as mentioned on page 1, where after every Hit you score you roll to see if it is critical. Instead, when you roll a natural 20 or higher on a D20, consult the Hit Chart for your weapon type on these two pages after rolling a 1D100. When you roll a natural 1 on a D20, consult the Fumble Chart on the second page: Page 1: &nbsp; Critical Hits Page 2: <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IOwO6Qxl50c/UBWXJ9zbqRI/" rel="nofollow">http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IOwO6Qxl50c/UBWXJ9zbqRI/</a>...
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Horse Speeds: For use in the game: Running Top Speed : 59.546 km/h or 37mph (2 minute run) Galloping: &nbsp;40km/h or 24.855mph to 48km/h or 29.826 mph Canter: &nbsp;19km/h or 11.806mph to 24km/h or 14.9129mph Trot: &nbsp;13km/h or 8.0778mph to 18/km/h or 11.185mph Walk: &nbsp;6.4km/h or 3.9768mph The game has the horse's speed set at 170 feet/round. This is 10,200 feet/hour or 1.9318182 miles/hour or 3.1090 km/h. The Keep on the Borderlands module has it that the horse would thus go 85 feet/round through the Borderlands Forest. Thus 5,100 feet per hour or 0.9659091 miles per hour or 1.5545 kh/h. So the game is close to the Walk Speed on an open road at least. On the putting on &amp; removal of Horse Barding: Leather Barding: &nbsp;it takes 15 minutes to remove, &amp; 1/2 hour to put on.&nbsp; Metal Barding: &nbsp;30 minutes to remove &amp; 1 hour to put on. It is a good idea to remove the horse barding as soon as possible to prevent chafing &amp; sores. Natural Light WarHorse Armor Class is 7, with Leather Barding on it is reduced to AC 6. From what I gather Horse Barding AC will go like this: Barding - Leather or padded +1 AC (AC 6) Chain +2 AC (AC 5) Full scale +3 AC (AC 4) Full plate +4 AC (AC 3)
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Information on Movement Rates: Movement Speed Multipliers Mode: Unencumbered&nbsp; / Armored or Encumbered&nbsp; /&nbsp; Armored and Encumbered Combat 12ft&nbsp; /&nbsp; 9ft&nbsp; /&nbsp; &nbsp;6ft&nbsp; (Note: Combat will likely be rounded to 10ft / 7.5ft / 5ft for ease of use on Roll20 Maps or hold Alt button down to fine tune placement if you want to.) Exploring 120ft&nbsp; /&nbsp; 90ft&nbsp; /&nbsp; 60ft Walking 240ft&nbsp; /&nbsp; 180ft&nbsp; /&nbsp; 120ft Running 360ft&nbsp; /&nbsp; 270ft&nbsp; /&nbsp; &nbsp;-- ======== Combat's movement (engaged in melee), is by the segment (6 seconds = 1 round of Combat turn orders in this game). So you would move a total of 60 ft if unencumbered, 45 ft armored or encumbered,&nbsp; or 15 ft,&nbsp; if armored and encumbered, in Five (6 Seconds) Rounds of combat, for an example.&nbsp; The rest are by the regular 1 minute round, (i.e. Exploring, Walking, Running). Some of those numbers above will be different depending on the type of armor worn and or if encumbered. ======== Marching speed of Party on Foot: &nbsp;(2 Options): 60 mile a day pace: 4 mph walking speed;&nbsp; 3 hours (12 miles), .5 hour break,&nbsp; 2.5 hours (10 miles), 1 hour break (lunch),&nbsp; 3 hours (12 miles), .5 hour break,&nbsp; 3 hours (12 miles, 46 total miles so far), .5 hour break,&nbsp; 3 hours (12 miles, 58 total miles so far),&nbsp; .5 hour (2 miles, 17 hours &amp; 60 miles total)&nbsp; 30 mile a day pace: 3 mph walking speed; 3 hours (9 miles) break .5 hour,&nbsp; travel 3 hours (9 miles) break 1 hour (lunch),&nbsp; travel 3 hours (9 miles) break .5 hour,&nbsp; travel 1 hours, (3 miles) (10 Hours &amp; 30 miles Total) The players pick either option above then the Dungeon Master will make the random wander monster checks. Plus any Fatigue checks rolls as needed: Now we come to&nbsp; Fatigue : If you travel more than 2 Hexes ( or 24 miles), you begin to run the possibility of getting Fatigued. For every Hex that you travel beyond 2 Hexes (or 24 miles), you will do the following dice rolls: Roll a D20, three times, if any one roll is more than your CONstitution Score you will lose 1 Hit Point of Sub-Dual Damage. You do this 3 times in group sets of 3 rolls each. If any of those 3 rolls, in a group, are over your CONstitution you are Fatigued &amp; lose 1 Hit Point of Sub-Dual Damage. You will have made 9 rolls all together. Swimming: Ok, for swimming a pro swimmer goes roughly 3.7mph which translates to 5.42667 feet (5' 5 1/8") per second. So in a 6 second combat round that's 32.56002 ft (32' 6 23/32") or regular 1 minute exploring round that's 325.6002 ft (325' 7 13/64"). For the game I guess we can round that to 32.5 ft during a combat round. Though this is basically for skinny dipping or with a swimsuit on. It would look like this: Base: 32.56 ft Lightly encumbered (-1/3): 21.71 Moderate (-1/2): 16.28 Heavy (-2/3): 10.86 Severe (-1): 1 ft - this would have been Willie's Speed =============== Movement Rates on the Isle of Dread: 1 hex = 6 miles The party may advance through the isle at the following speeds, according to the type of terrain they attempt to cross: HILLS&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1 hex / 3 hours FOOTHILLS/BLUFFS&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1 hex / 6 hours MOUNTAINS&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1 hex / 12 hours GRASSLANDS&nbsp; :&nbsp;5/6th Hex / 2 hours JUNGLE&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1 hex / 12 hours SWAMP&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1 hex / 12 hours RIVER&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1 hour to cross LAKE (raft)&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1/6th hex&nbsp; / 2 hours LAKE (boat)&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1/6th hex / 1 hour TRAIL&nbsp; :&nbsp; 1/6th hex / 1 hour
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TYPES OF ARMOR &amp; ENCUMBRANCE: (Updated: 08/13/20 1:52 am) Expanded (p. 75 Unearthed Arcana 1st edition; Corrected ; Addition information: P. 92 Player's Handbook Revised 2nd Edition) New armor types from 2E and Dragon Magazine are included. New armor from UA are in Bold. Armor types from 2E and Dragon, along with stats that needed filled in are in parentheses. In Brackets ‘[ ]’ is the original bulk or movement mistake before the correction. Armor Type &nbsp;&nbsp;AC Rating&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bulk &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Weight*&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Movement&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Cost &nbsp; Padded &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; 8&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; fairly &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; 10# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 9˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; 4 gp Leather &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;8 &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;non- &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;15# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;12˝&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 5 gp Studded Leather&nbsp; &nbsp;7&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; fairly &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;20#/(25# 2E)&nbsp; &nbsp;9˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 15 gp / (20 gp 2E) Ring Mail&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 7&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;fairly &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 25#/(30# 2E)&nbsp; &nbsp; 9˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 30 gp / (100 gp 2E) (Hide)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; (bulky)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;30#&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(6”)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;15 gp (Brigandine) &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; (fairly)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;35# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(9”)&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(60 gp) / (120 gp 2E) (Lamellar)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; (fairly)&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;35#&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(6”)&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;(55 gp) Scale Mail&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; fairly &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; 40# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;6˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;45 gp / (120 gp 2E) Elfin Chain Mail &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;5&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; non- &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 15# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;12˝&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;* * Chain Mail &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 5&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; fairly &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;30#/(40# 2E)&nbsp; &nbsp;9˝ &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;75 gp Banded &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; fairly [bulky] &nbsp;35#&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;6" [9˝]&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;90 gp / (200 gp 2E) Splint Mail &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; 4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; bulky &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;40# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 6˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;80 gp Bronze Plate Mail &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;4&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; bulky &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;45# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;6˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;100 gp / (400 gp 2E) Plate Mail &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 3&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;bulky &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; 45#/(50# 2E)&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;6˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; 400 gp / (600 gp 2E) Field Plate &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;2&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;bulky [fairly]&nbsp; 55#/(60# 2E) 6˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;2000 gp Full Plate &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; bulky [fairly]&nbsp;&nbsp;65#/(70# 2E) 6˝ &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 4000 gp / (4,000-10,000 gp 2E) * Assumes human-size. * * Elfin chain mail is never available on the open market TYPES OF SHIELDS: &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Vs. # of Attacks&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Bulk&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Weight&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Cost&nbsp;&nbsp; Shield, Buckler &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;1&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;non- &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;3# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 5&nbsp; gp / (1 gp 2E) Shield, Small, Wood &nbsp; &nbsp;2&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;non- &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;3# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;1 gp Shield, Small &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;non- &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;5# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;10 gp (3 gp 2E) Shield, Medium &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 2&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; bulky&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 10#&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 7 gp Shield, Large &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;bulky &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;10# &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;15 gp Shield, Body &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 3&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; bulky&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 15#&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 10 gp The large shield costing more than the body shield seems off though. Donning Armor: Time it takes to put on armor will be determined by: Character Armor Class - 9 = rounds (in Minutes), to don armor Here is a video of a fellow putting on plate mail armor: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HwRqJwXXcQ" rel="nofollow">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HwRqJwXXcQ</a> Some Tidbits on the Weight of Magical Armor and it's Affect on Encumbrance: As you may know the 1E DMG mentions magical armor as being weightless or half the weight. Gary clarified it in Polyhedron #01: Q: There seems to be contradictions between what is stated in the DMG (which mentions two options: weightless and 1/2 the weight), and the Players Handbook, concerning the weight of magical armor, which is correct? Gary: Magical armor weights half normal armor weight, but for game purposes, it has no encumbrance. Therefore, when determining the amount of weight which can be carried, the magical armor's weight must be subtracted from the total. However, it is not a factor when determining rate of movement. Magical armored characters will have the base movement speed of an unarmored man, which is then adjusted by the encumbrance of gear and treasure, excluding magical armor worn. 2nd edition's take on this is: PHB 2E P. 105 Magical Armor and Encumbrance&nbsp; One of the special properties of magical armor is its effect on encumbrance. Although magical armor appears to weigh as much as normal armor, the weight of magical armor applies only toward the weight limit of the character. It does not apply when determining the effects of encumbrance on movement and combat. In essence, the armor appears to weigh as much as normal armor but does not restrict or hamper the character. Cwell the bard finds a suit of chain mail +1. Lifting it up, he finds it weighs 60 pounds. Cwell is already carrying 50 pounds of gear. Donning the chain mail, he is now carrying 110 lbs. of gear. Cwell's Strength is 12, which means that he can carry only 30 more pounds of equipment. However, when calculating the effect of all this weight on his movement, Cwell is considered to only be carrying 50 pounds of gear--the magical armor doesn't count. Furthermore, he does not suffer any combat penalties for the chain mail's weight. Therefore magical armour weighs the same as regular armour, however this weight does not apply to the effects of encumbrance, only towards the total weight one can carry. Polyhedron #07: Q: I still don't understand about magic armor, armor -- weight, encumbrance and so forth. Gary: If you had to carry around a 5 ft cube of styrofoam, it would be very bulky, (High Encumbrance), but not heavy, (Little Weight). Magic armor is bulky and has encumbrance equal to half normal; But, for actual weight, it only loads you down as much as normal clothing. This is NOT apparent until the armor is worn; Magical armor found somewhere, will weigh as much as non-magical armor until someone puts it on. This is also why Armor slows character movement, check PHB 101 on encumbrance, for example chain mail is 30# (300 gpw) in terms of encumbrance, as long as a character has a strength greater than 7, this would NOT normally slow their movement as all cha racters are considered non encumbered at 35# (350 gpw) or less.&nbsp; However chain mail is "fairly bulky" this is were the second entry comes into play: "70# *or* fairly bulky" meaning that while the character has not gone to the 70# mark they have triggered the second clause of "or fairly bulky." Where magical armor comes into play, it changes the bulk section on the armor to "non" and takes ONLY the gpw of the armor into question, and at a 50% reduction, meaning that chain mail +1 (human size) would be 17.5# (175 gpw) and have a move of 12" base, as it is only as bulky as clothing.&nbsp; (Note there is a mistake under banded. it should either be listed as "fairly" or move 6" this is an unresolved eratta in 1e. In UA field and full plate should be listed as bulky) Ok, so now seeing it as the DM having two options to choose from, I guess I will roll a 1d6 to determine if; a) Magical armor is half the regular weight or b) Magical armor is same weight as regular armor. In either case, it does not effect your movement rate, and you still keep track of how much weight you are carrying, so that you keep to the actual amount of weight you can carry, as it still has mass, (i.e. your encumbrance). I believe I was originally doing half the weight but was including it in the encumbrance to affect your movement rate. ENCUMBRANCE Whatever you select to carry will have both weight and volume (or bulk). Equipment for adventuring is necessary, but too much is deadly. In order to be able to move with reasonable rapidity and freedom, the number of items carried and apparel worn must suit encumbrance restrictions. (Remember that the volume of something can be as critical as its weight, i.e. 20 pounds of feathers in a sack are cumbersome.) To be useful, items generally must be readily accessible, so this consideration must also be borne in mind. Lastly, as the main purpose of adventuring is to bring back treasure, provision for carrying out a considerable amount of material must also be made. The table below gives you a guideline respecting weight and bulk carried and how movement is affected: Encumbrance&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; |&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Movement&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; |&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Reaction and Initiative normal gear — about&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 12” — subject can 35# and no great bulk&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; run quickly&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;normal or better bulk heavy gear — armor&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 9” — subject can&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;normal, no bonuses and/or equipment of&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;make a lumbering run about 70# or fairly bulky very heavy gear —&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 6” — subject can trot&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;slowed armor and/or equipment&nbsp; &nbsp; for short distances of 105# and bulky (such as plate armor) encumbered — armor&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 3” to 4” — no trotting&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;slowed greatly and/or equipment over&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;possible 105# weight and/or (very) bulky Strength penalties or bonuses will modify these guidelines. Weight is usually stated in gold pieces, 10 gold pieces equalling 1# (pound). Volume can only be calculated from known comparisons, as the size and shape of objects varies from individual to individual, i.e. how big is a tapestry?
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The&nbsp; Initiative Roll &nbsp;is taken from the Baldur's Gate games which is considered 1E/2E. The algorithm is: Init = [ 1 D 10 ] + Dexterity Reaction Adjustment - Weapon Speed or Spell Casting Time For this algorithm Spell Casting Time is rounded up to the nearest Round if it occurs in segments. You could also just take and use the Spell's level if you are unsure of it's casting time. The Turn order then goes from Highest to Lowest, in this case. As a variance, you could take the first base die roll to represent the number of people in the party so that if there are 6 you use a D6, if there are 10 the D10, if there are 12 the D12, etc. How often the Initiative is rolled depends on game attendance.&nbsp; If there are only a few we roll the Init once and use it for the length of the entire combat. Otherwise, the Init gets rolled prior to the start of each new combat round. Once the Attacks per Round of Fighters, Cavaliers and their sub-classes increase, (i.e. 3/2 or 2/1 or 5/2 or by a Haste spell) or there are Bow Users or other weapons that can be tossed more than once in a round, you will need to add in the addition attack(s), into the Turn Order. Once the Initial part of the round is over and everyone had their turn, the DM calls out if anyone has a 2nd attack that they would like to do. If so you, ask the players to declare their intentions then, go through the turn order again in the same order and those players and any monsters/npcs make their 2nd attack. This repeats for any 3rd attacks in a round. When finished the DM starts the next new round of combat.
A helpful Monk's Percentage Chance to Kill Chart:
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Notes on Cleric Turning of Undead: We will be using the 2nd Edition Leveling Chart from p. 137 of the Player's Handbook, as it is the more challenging one. I will keep, the 1-12 roll for the number affected from 1st Edition, (In 2E it's 2-12). Starting at level 8 in both Editions, there are additional lower level undead affected in 1E it's 1d6 more and in 2E it's 2d4 more . So then it's a total of 2-18 (1E) or 3-20 (2E), lower level undead being turned starting at 8th level. In this case I go with the 1E roll as it is the un-nerfed more challenging roll. 2nd Edition does not mention the time the Cleric Turning last. In 1st Edition, it's 3-12 rounds (Minutes in this case). 2E mentions that the lowest level undead are turned first. So unless the Cleric Player specifically specifies which Undead he/she is turning, that is how it will go. Since, 1E says that you can't attempt to Turn an undead that a roll initially failed on, you must wait one day in order to make a new attempt on that same particular undead.
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Here is how the, "Rules Cyclopedia" List the order of combat. This can be modded for Individual 1d6 Initiative rolls or Initiative rolls using Dexterity and weapon speed or spell casting time, you can change the first die to one that is closer to the number of people in the party: (Ex: Init=1d10 + Dex Reaction Bonus or Spell casting time rounded to nearest round), which then goes from highest to Lowest, Some add the Weapon Speed or Casting Time and go from lowest to highest. So, ok, how do you go about either simplifying for beginners or fast play or expanding it out for Advanced play? I myself will either let the magic-user cast the spell during the 6 second combat round/segment (for quick play or beginners or use the casting time for advanced players which means that if the spell takes 5 segments to cast and the caster starts with working with the spell components, somatic gestures, and verbal commands, on the 1st round/segment, he finishes the spell at the start of the 5th round/segment, at which point the spell is cast: COMBAT SEQUENCE CHECKLIST: Surprise Roll: Both sides roll a 1d6: The difference is the # of rounds/segments that the surprised (usually a roll of 1 or 2), party has to wait before attacking in a combat round.&nbsp; Example: if the surprised party rolls a 2 and the other side rolls a 5 that is 3 round segments before the surprised can act, each combat segment being 6&nbsp; or 10 seconds in length. Players declare their intentions for the combat round then: A. Initiative: Each side rolls 1d6 to determine initiative. B. First Side Goes: The side that won the initiative acts first. If there is a Psionics user in the party, they perform their attack, defense or healing. Morale (Optional): Monsters and NPCs roll Morale Checks. Also, anyone who needs to make a saving throw vs. an ongoing effect does so now. Movement: Characters who choose to move do so now. (When specifically engaged in Melee, I play it that a character can move half their base movement rate or I use this: Combat movement rate: 12ft Unencumbered / 9ft armored or encumbered / 6ft Armored and encumbered). Missile Combat: Characters using missile and thrown weapons make their attacks. a. They choose their targets. b. They make their attack rolls. c. They roll damage for any successful hits. Magic: Characters using magic cast their spells. a. They choose their targets. b. Their targets roll saving throws if appropriate. c. The DM applies the results. Hand-to-Hand Combat: Characters fighting hand-to-hand make their attacks. a. They choose their targets. b. They make their attack rolls. c. They roll damage for any successful hits. C. Second Side Goes: The side that lost the initiative acts now, performing the same six steps. D. Special Results: The DM announces any special results.
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Thieving Abilities: Here is the re-worked change to the Thieving Abilities, again this is being done to make the game challenging again: What i did here was: 1) Took the Lowest Starting Abilities Scores from the Revised 2nd Edition Player's Handbook on P. 54 &amp; the 1st Edition's 'Hear Noise' Ability since it was the lowest Score. These became the 'Base Starting Score' for a thief, at Level 1, Thus the base starting scores for a Thief are as follows: PP: 15%, OL: 10%, FT: 5%, MS: 10%, HiS: 5%, HN: 10%, CW: 60%, RL(starting 4th level): 20% 2) Applied any Racial Adjustments from the Revised 2nd Edition Player's Handbook. 3) Applied any Dexterity Adjustments from the Revised 2nd Edition Player's Handbook. 4) Applied any Armor Adjustments from the Revised 2nd Edition Player's Handbook. 5) For Leveling up we are using the chart from the 2nd Edition revised Dungeon Masters Guide P. 34. The table is pretty much the same with Pick Pockets being the most tweaked and at the higher levels and everything tops out at 99%. However I am topping it out at 95%. Thus you would add at Level 2: +5 Pick Pockets, +4 Open Locks, +5 Find/Remove Traps, +6 Move Silently, +5 Hide In Shadows &amp; +1 to Climb Walls, for example when leveling up to level 2. This would be the equivalent of adding 26 points to various ability scores. I did this to make it more challenging however, with the 2nd edition's Dexterity &amp; Armor adjustments some scores are actually higher than they would be for 1st edition.&nbsp; For Example, Luren would get a 17% to open locks at level 4 &amp; when the 2nd edition's Dexterity bonus is added in, of 20% it jumps up to 37%! What is Not being done here, is distributing 60 additional points among the skills at 1st level with no more than 30 going to any one of the ability scores, this is from the revised 2nd edition.&nbsp; Also Not being done here is giving out another 30 points per level-up with a maximum of 15 to any one ability score, this is also from the revised 2nd edition Player's Handbook.&nbsp; 2E's take is that the thief concentrated more on one skill than another, if that were the case, when out in the field for example, the dumb thief would be insistent upon only opening locks, until it's maxed out, which would be a determent to him/herself &amp; the party as a whole. Plus, all that padded in extra points, makes it look like the thief already had college level experience at first level. Also, 2E mentions that using a rope adds 55% to your 'Climb Walls' ability, yet there is the cut off at 99% for all thief ability scores which 2E also has &amp; this game will use. (However, If by chance the Thief becomes an Immortal, I may let him increase all his thieving abilities beyond 95%, using the same way that a Cavalier knight or Paladin knight, can increase his strength score.) So how this really works here: Base starting 'climb walls', for a thief is 60%. The 55% for use of rope &amp; climbing gear, is already reflected in this total percentage. Thus, if the thief chose Not to Use his climbing gear, he now has a 5% chance of success, which of course can be adjusted due to type of surface being climbed upon. On Another Note: On Surprise Rolls:&nbsp; 1st Edition uses a 1d6 with a 1 or 2 (~33%) being a surprise, for most of the character classes. 2nd edition uses a 1d10 &amp; you can apparently add your dexterity bonus to it. You are surprised on a 1 to 3 (30%). If you use the 1d10 in this game, (along with your dexterity bonus added in) ... again to make it challenging, it will be 1-4 (40%) on a 1d10 that you are surprised.&nbsp; ( It just seems ridiculous that the equivalent of a 7-sided die lets you not be surprised ! ) Another example, an adjustment for the Bard: For altomi's, base starting,Legend, Lore &amp; Item Knowledge percentage:&nbsp; It is 10% in 1st Edition &amp; 20% in 2nd edition ... here again the lower more challenging number is used ! One More Note:I am not enforcing the, 'Minimum' Ability score needed for being a particular class of character. This again is being done to keep the game challenging &amp; to rid of the tendency to 'Fudge Up' the ability stat dice rolls &amp; let the player be the class he/she originally wished to play.
Here is some info on Arrow Combat, Breakage &amp; Recovery, from the 2nd Edition of the "Complete Book of Elves (1992)": (Note: To keep it simple i may simply add the method of using a 1 or 2 on a D6 chance of arrow breakage [i.e. victim falls to ground snapping arrow, arrow breaks during impact, etc], into the characters Arrow 'To Hit' Roll Macros) Archery Modifications&nbsp; Elves are, with few exceptions, the undisputed masters of the bow. They have developed their art to a state of true excellence.&nbsp; This section details several techniques elves have devised to hone their archery skills—for fun, profit, and protection.&nbsp; Many other races have seen these tricks, and those that were not on the receiving end of them have diligently tried to practice these arts.&nbsp; Seven optional techniques for firing a bow are outlined in this section; these modifications are cumulative with any others that a character might have. Also, most of these tricks are usable only with long or short bows (or the composite versions thereof).&nbsp; A few can be used with the crossbow, but because most elves disdain the use of that weapon, its modifiers are not included.&nbsp; An important note regarding elven archery: Elves may, because of their agility, fire their bow, move, and fire once again.&nbsp; Alternatively, they may choose to move, fire their bow, and then move again. The Broken-Charge Shot One of the most effective weapons of a mounted enemy is the ability to charge.&nbsp; One of the most effective ways to rid foes of this advantage is to take out their mounts from underneath them.&nbsp; Although this isn't a method elves generally employ because the mount usually isn't a threat, they will use the tactic if things are looking grim on the field of battle.&nbsp; Elves will also use this optional maneuver if the mount itself poses a threat.&nbsp; Unless such animals are well trained in the ways of combat and in dealing with pain, a hit by an arrow will break the charge.&nbsp; Riders must make a Land-Based Riding check to see if they retain their seating atop an injured mount. If they fail this check, they must follow with a Dexterity check.&nbsp; Those who don't have the proficiency may only do the Dexterity check; if this check fails, the rider is hurled to the ground for 1d4 points of damage. The Double-Arrow Shot Another trick that is impressive (though good for little else) is the double-arrow shot.&nbsp; By adding a +1 penalty to initiative and taking a –1 to attack rolls and damage, the archer may fire two arrows from the bow with one pull of the string.&nbsp; The arrows can be directed toward a single target or at two separate targets within a 60-degree arc if the attacker is willing to take an additional +1 penalty to initiative and another –1 to attack rolls and damage.&nbsp; This reflects the time the archer takes to adjust the fletching and arrange the arrows on the string.&nbsp; This shot does not allow more than two arrows on a single string.&nbsp; Lastly, if this option is taken, no more than one additional arrow may be fired in the same round. EXAMPLE: Kanali, a 3rd-level/3rd-level high elf fighter/mage, faces two ogres.&nbsp; She has exhausted her spells and must rely only on her archery skills.&nbsp; Taking two arrows from her quiver, she rips the fletching a bit, nocks them both on the string (taking a +2 to initiative), and lets loose the arrows.&nbsp; To hit the ogres' AC 4, she rolls a 16 and a 13.&nbsp; Taking all her modifiers into effect (+1 for being an elf, –2 for the difficulty of the shot), her total modifier is –1.&nbsp; Her modified rolls are then 15 and 12.&nbsp; Since she needs 13 to hit AC 4, she hits one of the ogres, inflicting 1d6 –2 points of damage.&nbsp; If she had focused both shots on one ogre, the damage would have been greater.&nbsp; She still has one shot left this round, and she'd better not waste it. The Foot Shot In some situations, an archer may find one of her arms unable to grip the string or shaft of a bow.&nbsp; Perhaps the other hand is holding onto something to keep the elf from falling, or perhaps the arm has been injured.&nbsp; Or maybe the elf just wants a bit of extra pull on the bow, to inflict just a little more damage.&nbsp; In a case like this, if a shot is absolutely required, elves have developed the foot shot.&nbsp; The elf must have a secure place to rest her hindside and at least one arm free.&nbsp; Using the feet as a base against which to pull, the elf aims the bow and pulls back the string with the free hand (or both, if possible).&nbsp; Although there is a –1 penalty to attack rolls, the damage is increased by +1 because of the extra pull granted by using her feet. The Hanging-Tree Shot Because elves spend so much time in and around with trees, they obviously have found a need to incorporate trees into their archery.&nbsp; Elf scouts and spies especially have learned to use trees effectively.&nbsp; They drop from branches to land in front of their enemies or use trees as concealment.&nbsp; One of the tricks elf archers are most proud of is the dangling shot.&nbsp; In this shot, the elf wraps her legs around a sturdy tree branch and drops downward while simultaneously firing right into the faces of her oncoming enemies.&nbsp; Unfortunately, the disadvantages to this shot are numerous.&nbsp; The most obvious is that anything on the elf that isn't tied down or strapped in (arrows, daggers, loose change, et cetera) will fall to the ground. Another disadvantage is the –3 to attack rolls.&nbsp; Lastly, the elf can't fire her usual two shots.&nbsp; However, the elf can still take an action, such as swinging back up into the tree or jumping to the ground.&nbsp; Further, the enemy suffers a –6 to his surprise roll!&nbsp; This advantage alone often outweighs the drawbacks, and the hanging tree shot is a favorite trick of elves ambushing lone outriders. The Quick-Draw Shot Every once in a while, there arises a situation where an archer must fire more than two arrows a round or where the archer must bring a bow to bear very quickly.&nbsp; In response to this need, elves have developed the quick draw shot.&nbsp; Their agility and the near-constant companionship of their bows has helped them achieve that end admirably.&nbsp; Because of the speed involved in firing from a quick draw, the elf has less time to aim.&nbsp; Therefore, accuracy of the shot is severely affected.&nbsp; The first shot in a round is made at no penalty.&nbsp; From there, penalties add up quickly. The second shot is at –2. The third is at –4. The fourth is at –8.&nbsp; If the elf wishes to attempt a fifth shot, the penalty for it is –16.&nbsp; The archer gets off two shots on his first attack sequence.&nbsp; When all combatants have finished their first attacks, the archer may take the next two, if so desired.&nbsp; Finally, after everyone has completed second attacks, the archer may take one final shot.&nbsp; Although this shot is almost guaranteed to miss, it may be the last hope of a party, so many try it in moments of desperation.&nbsp; A sixth shot in a round is virtually impossible unless the elf has been hasted or has otherwise been made exceptionally speedy.&nbsp; In such magically enhanced cases, the first two shots are without penalty.&nbsp; The third and fourth are at –2. The fifth and sixth are at –4. The seventh is at –8. The eighth (and final) shot is at –16. The Stapling Shot When an elf wants to disarm or otherwise incapacitate someone, he can attempt a stapling maneuver.&nbsp; By making a called shot (+1 penalty to initiative, –4 to attack rolls), the character can staple some part of the target's clothing to a nearby object, as long as that object is of a material that is reasonably subject to penetration by an arrow (such as wood or plaster).&nbsp; The target must be standing near such an object or the shot is wasted.&nbsp; If the shot is successful, the target is pinned to that object.&nbsp; The target must spend a round tearing free, although this requires no roll.&nbsp; Pinned targets defend with a –2 to AC and to attacks rolls.&nbsp; After three rounds, if they have not taken the time to free themselves, they break free due to exertion.&nbsp; During these three rounds, the penalties to Armor Class and attack rolls still apply.&nbsp; The stapling shot is not only good for preventing various actions on the part of a hostile person, it serves to demonstrate that the elves are far from defenseless.&nbsp; Furthermore, many elves like to embarrass targets by affixing them to the nearest piece of "furniture." The Trick Shot Elves do not always choose to nail an offensive person to the nearest tree.&nbsp; Often, they prefer another means to convey their disdain or enmity.&nbsp; Thus, elves have perfected their aim so that they can make a spectacular retaliatory shot that says to an enemy that he is not needed nor, indeed, wanted in the elves' portion of the world.&nbsp; Trick shots of this sort include knocking off hats, sending an arrow an inch away from an intruder's ear, or placing an arrow in interesting and amusing places (such as the behind of an orc).&nbsp; Deliberate trick shots also include shots intended to be clearly warning shots and not simply missed targets.&nbsp; These trick shots require the elf to take a +1 to initiative and a –4 to attack rolls.&nbsp; If the attack roll is made, the arrow can do exactly what the elf wanted.&nbsp; Otherwise, it will either fly away harmlessly (informing victims that someone is shooting at them), or it will actually hit the one for whom the warning was intended.&nbsp; If so, the arrow inflicts 1d3 points of damage.&nbsp; If the targets were not previously enemies, they certainly would be by now. Using Bows as Weapons When archers wielding a bow are attacked in melee, they have little choice but to defend themselves with the bow.&nbsp; In the past, this typically spelled the destruction of the bow, but elves have learned how to deflect some of the force of a blow—thus making the bow reparable.&nbsp; Furthermore, elves have developed bows that are more resistant to this sort of damage.&nbsp; Elves can attempt to turn aside the worst of crushing blows, and their bows are allowed to make a save vs. crushing blow (as thick wood) at +1. Piercing weapons are easily deflected as long as the elf succeeds in the parry, and they cause no damage to the bow.&nbsp; However, a parry against a slashing weapon is a sure way to destroy a wood bow.&nbsp; More importantly, archers occasionally can't reach their melee weapons when someone engages them in close combat.&nbsp; In these cases, they must resort to using their bows as clubs against their attackers.&nbsp; The damage caused is 1d6 –1 against S or M creatures, 1d4 against L.&nbsp; If used in this way, a wood bow must save vs. crushing blows at –1. Arrow Breakage and Loss Although most fletchers make their wares with great care, the force of bow shots is often enough to induce breakage.&nbsp; And, although most archers will deny it, occasionally they do miss.&nbsp; This section presents an optional rule to cover such situations.&nbsp; When an arrow or bolt is fired and the missile strikes its target, the missile must make a saving throw vs. crushing blow at +6 with other applicable bonuses (or penalties) to the save.&nbsp; If the save fails, the shaft is broken and cannot be used again.&nbsp; If the save is a success, the missile can be reused.&nbsp; If the missile misses its target, it travels out to its maximum range (if there are no obstacles to impede its movement), which is 25% greater than long range.&nbsp; It skids across the ground, ricocheting against rocks, gravel, plants, etc.&nbsp; There is a 10% chance to find a lost missile that has reached its maximum range, unless special precautions have been taken with proper modifiers for different terrains at the DM's discretion.&nbsp; Certain types of terrain will, of course, make recovery impossible.&nbsp; Aerial and naval battles are two examples of such terrains.&nbsp; Even if the missile is found, it still must roll a saving throw vs. crushing blow at +3 to be unbroken.&nbsp; Not only does this optional rule make for more realistic game play, it also allows characters with the Bowyer/Fletcher proficiency to make use of their skills.&nbsp; Furthermore, this rule will allow characters to spend far less time searching for possibly broken arrows.
This is an example of a Battle / Encounters Log, for a thread that I used to post up on the earlier game modules. The idea was to easily show the Hits, the Damage, and Spells Cast or Potions Drank during Combat or simply to list what npc/monster was in an encounter area. I would then edit out the Combat in the chat archive for the week and just summarize it for the story chapter. Here is an Example: Combat in The Inn: In the Parlor Area:At Bar: Burl (in back):&nbsp; (Padded Armor AC 8, Mace, Belaying Pin) [HP: -4 / 24] [Short Sword: 1 HP: Holger] [Arrow(PBR): 8 HP: Fenwe] [Morningstar: 9 HP: Taursis] [Arrow(PBR): 10 HP: Fenwe] [Dead] Parlor Fighter #3: (Leather Armor AC 8, Long Sword, Belaying Pin) [HP -1 / 5] [Short Sword: 2 HP: Holger] [Bolt: 4 HP: Sven] [Dead] Parlor Fighter #4: (Padded Armor AC 8, Dagger, Belaying Pin) [HP -9 / 5] [Short Sword: 3 HP: Holger] [Calenyanda: 10+1 HP: Barak] [Dead] Parlor Fighter #5: (Leather Armor AC 8, Battle Axe, Belaying Pin) [HP -6 / 5] [Calenyanda: 11 HP: Barak] [Dead] Parlor Fighter #6: (Leather Armor AC 8, Scimitar, Belaying Pin) [HP -3 / 5] [Arrow(PBR): 8 HP: Fenwe] [Dead] Playing Cards: Parlor Fighter #1:&nbsp; (Leather Armor AC 8, Short Sword, Belaying Pin) [HP 0 / 5] [Bolt: 5 HP: Sven] [Dead] Parlor Fighter #2: (Leather Armor AC 8, Short Sword, Belaying Pin) [HP -7 / 5] [Bolt: 4 HP: Sven] [Morningstar: 8 HP: Taursis] [Dead] Parlor Thief #1: (Padded Armor AC 8, Long Sword, Belaying Pin) [HP -4 / 5] [Arrow: 4 HP: Luren] [Calenyanda: 5 HP: Barak] [Dead] Parlor Thief #2: (Padded Armor AC 8, Long Sword, Belaying Pin) [HP -4 / 5] [Morning Star: 9 HP: Taursis] [Dead] Adventurers' Combat &amp; Injury Stat Blocks: Altomi:&nbsp; (Leather Armor AC: 8 : HP: 10 / 10 )&nbsp; Barak: (Banded Mail AC: 4 : HP 9 / 12 ) [Belaying Pin: 3 HP: Parlor Fighter #3] Deklan: (Thorns of the Martyr Bracers AC: 5 : HP 8 / 8)&nbsp; Ellamin: (Leather Armor &amp; Starflower Band AC: 8 or 7 : HP: 10 / 10 ) Fenwe: (Banded Mail AC: 4 : HP 14 / 14 )&nbsp; Madara: (Clothing AC: 10 : HP: 8 / 8 )&nbsp; Luren: (Leather Armor AC: 8 or 4 (Dex Bonus): HP: 6 / 6 ) Sven Kas'ka: (Clothing AC: 10 or 7 (Dex Bonus): HP: 7 / 7 ) Taursis: (Banded Mail + Dragon Shield (+1) AC: 3 : HP 13 / 16 ) [Belaying Pin: 3 HP: Parlor Fighter #1]
Here is something on the Intelligence Table 2 for Magic-Users. This is an updated chart i came up with that takes 1st edition AD&amp;D &amp; Holmes Basic &amp; combines them. (Note: The Chart is just an example, i am still using the 1E chart as listed): Here is how i would have the Magic-User Intelligence Table II Look for like, a true 3rd Edition of 'Advanced' Dungeons &amp; Dragons. Plus i added a chart showing IQ range for the Ability Scores: Ability Score: Chance to Know Minimum # of Max # of Each Spell Listed: Spells / Level : Spells / Level: 1-2 10% 1 2 3-4 20% 2 3 5-7 30% 3 5 8-9 40% 4 6 10-12 50% 5 7 13-14 65% 6 9 15-16 75% 7 11 17 85% 8 14 18 90% 9 18 19+ 95% 10 All IQ Intelligence Interval - Ability Score - Cognitive Designation 40 - 54 0 Severely challenged (Less than 1% of test takers) 55 - 69 1-4 Challenged (2.3% of test takers) 70 - 84 5-8 Below average 85 - 114 9-11 Average (68% of test takers) 115 - 129 12-13 Above average 130 - 144 14-15 Gifted (2.3% of test takers) 145 - 159 16-17 Genius (Less than 1% of test takers) 160 - 175 18+ Extraordinary genius What we are doing for the game:Magic-Users start with 5 spells in their spell book. First one is Read Magic. They then roll on 4 more spells from p. 39 of the 1E Dungeon Masters Guide Ok, now so say like as mentioned in the PHB your Wizard is able to go to another Magic-User &amp; peruse his spell books. He/she then rolls to see what spells can eventually be learned. If that option is not available, your Wizard, simply rolls to see if he knows the spells in the scrolls &amp; spellbooks he finds while adventuring. You gain another chance to Learn spells, that you could not learn before, when you level up, up to the maximum permitted. For both options above, your Wizard would start with a basic spell book of Cantrips which, at the least would have 'Read Magic' as a default spell. Your Magic-User would be able to cast 4 cantrips a day plus the Higher Level Spells memorized per day at higher levels. (This gives the Casters a little more to do.)
This is basically an example of how I piece together Spell Information from the various Editions for use in the game: Ok, i pieced this (6th Edition) Sleep Spell, all together using all the other editions, (O to 5th) which gives the DM various options to use depending on how he/she feels it fits a game situation. I do not have the Dangerous Journey's Stuff otherwise i'd include any variation of it's Sleep spell here as well. This basically shows how one could envision how things would look had each edition simply added to what came before, giving the DM various options, where he/she could pick out what works best for a gaming situation or level of play (newbies vs. experienced players): Sleep Spell: Level: 1 Range: DM Options: (240 Ft) or (30 ft + 10 ft per Level 1e) or (90 ft 2e &amp; 5e) or (100 ft + 10 ft per level; 3.5e) (Note: if you opt to have the spell's range increase on level up, it will start at 40 ft &amp; Max Out at 240 ft) Duration: 5 Rounds / Level or (1 round / level; 3.5 e) Casting time: 1 segment Components: V, S, M= fine pinch of sand or rose petals or live cricket Saving Throws: DM Options: None (1st Ed) or (Will Save (Save vs Spells?); 3.5 Ed) or (Magic-User's Intelligence vs Creature's Will (constitution?); 4th Ed) Area of Effect: 30 feet diameter (15 ft radius) from the creature or object the spell is targeted &amp; centered on; or [20 feet diameter (10 ft radius) 3.5e]&nbsp; or Burst 2 within 20 squares (4th ed) ???? Does this mean a 20 ft wide area within 200 feet??? + DM Options: The DM Options are: The number of creature Hit Points (5D8) (Basic &amp; 5th Ed): Starting with the creature that has the lowest current hit points, each creature affected by this spell falls unconscious until the spell ends, the sleeper takes damage, or someone uses an action to to shake or slap the sleeper awake.&nbsp; Subtract each creature's hit points from the total before moving on to the creature with the next lowest hit points. A creature's hit points must be equal to or less than the remaining total for that creature to be affected. Or Hit Die (2D4) (2nd Edition), 4 HD (3.5th Ed): Where you start with the lowest Hit Die creature first then subtract it's Hit Die from the total. Or the 1st Edition chart below: (With this you could say it affects up to 31 HD of the various creature mix below, you just roll to see how many of them get put to sleep): Creature Hit Dice: Number Affected Up to 1; 4-16 (4d4)&nbsp; 1+1 to 2; 2-8 (2d4)&nbsp; 2+1 to 3; 1-4 (1d4)&nbsp; 3+1 to 4; 1-2 (1/2d4) round off&nbsp; 4+1 to 4+4; 0-1 (d4, 3 or 4) If you would like your Magic-User to gain a Sleep spell enhancement on Leveling Up:&nbsp; At Higher Levels. When you cast this spell using a spell slot of 2nd level or higher, roll an additional 2d8 (Hit Points), for each slot level above 1st. 4th Edition DM Option:&nbsp; Hit: The target is slowed (save ends). (This is a Magic-User Intelligence Vs Creature's Will (Constitution) Roll ???) If the target fails its first saving throw against this power, the target becomes unconscious (save ends). Miss: The target is slowed (save ends). When a Magic-User cast a sleep spell, a comatose slumber will come upon one or more creatures affected (Other than Undead or those not affected by mind spells, or those specifically excluded from the spells effects). Slapping or wounding will awaken affected creatures, but noise will not do so.&nbsp; Awakening requires 1 full melee round (1 minute). Note that sleeping creatures can be slain automatically at a rate of 1 per slayer per melee round. Example 2: Web (Evocation) (1E / 2E): Level: 2 Components: V,S,M Range: 5 ft / level (1E) / 5 yards / level (2E) (outdoors) Casting Time: 2 segments Duration: 2 turns/level Saving Throw: Negates or Half Area of Effect: Special / 8,000 cubic ft Explanation/Description: A web spell creates a many-layered mass of strong, sticky strands similar to spider webs, but far larger and tougher. These masses must be anchored to two or more solid and diametrically opposed points — floor and ceiling, opposite walls, etc. — (DM Option (2E)): or the web collapses upon itself and disappears.) The web spell covers a maximum area of 80 cubic feet, (eight 10-foot × 10-foot × 10-foot cubes), and the webs must be at least 10 ft thick, so a mass 40 ft high, 20 ft wide, and 10 ft deep may be cast.&nbsp; Creatures caught within webs, or simply touching them, become stuck amongst the gluey fibers.&nbsp; Creatures with less than 13 strength, (7 if the webs are half strength), must remain fast until freed by another or until the spell wears off. Missile fire is generally ineffective against creatures trapped in webs.&nbsp; [DM Option (1E): For every full turn entrapped by a web, a creature has a 5% cumulative chance of suffocating to death.]&nbsp; Creatures with strength between 13 and 17 can break through 1 ft of webs per turn, (DM Option 2E: Per Round).&nbsp; Creatures with 18 or greater strength break through 1 ft of webs per round, (DM Option 2E: 2ft of web per round) (DM Option 2E: If the webs are at half strength, these rates are doubled.) (N.B. Sufficiently great mass equates to great strength in this case, and great mass will hardly notice webs.) Strong and huge creatures will break through 10 ft of webs per segment, (DM Option 2E: It's per Round). It is important to note that the strands of a web spell are flammable. A magic flaming sword will slash them away as easily as a hand brushes away cobwebs. Any fire - torch, flaming oil, flaming sword, etc. - will (can (2E), set them alight and burn them away in a single round. All creatures within the flaming webs will take 2-8 hit points of damage from the flames, but those freed of the strands will not be harmed.&nbsp; Anyone in the area when the spell is cast must roll a saving throw vs. spell with a –2 penalty. If the saving throw versus web is successful, two results may have occurred. If the creature has room to escape then he is assumed to have jumped free. If there is no room to escape then the webs are only half strength.&nbsp; The material component of this spell is a bit of spider web.
Optional Druid Table for Curing / Pacifying Lycanthropes:
A Note About Coinage on Calidar: Each city in Calidar mints their own coins.&nbsp; In Caer Brennau the names of these coins have a forest theme.&nbsp; They do not mint platinum coins, so the coinage of the city are: Gold Harts (Deer)&nbsp; Electrum Wolves&nbsp; Silver Leaves Copper Acorns. In Caer Arail the names of these coins are defensive in nature. Due to Caer Arail's position as the eastern-most defensive stronghold of the old Kingdom of Cadarn. Caer Arail also does not mint platinum coins, so the coinage of the city is minted as follows: Gold Towers Electrum Shields&nbsp; Silver Helms&nbsp; &amp; Copper Bucklers. Monetary Conversion: 10 Copper Pieces = 1 Silver Piece 20 Silver Pieces = 1 Gold Piece 2 Electrum Pieces = 1 Gold Piece 1 Platinum Piece = 5 Gold Pieces Thus 200 c.p. = 20 s.p. = 2 e.p. = 1 g.p. = 1/5 p.p.
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A note on Undead Level Draining from Jeff Mabry: The irony is level drain, is a balance on human characters, for the most part soft capping their levels to about level 10, which is about where demi-humans are capped.&nbsp; The best part of this is it allows remaining in the sweet spot of adventuring forever. It also takes basically the same XP to go from 9ish to 10ish as it does from 1st-9th or 10th. Which keeps every character in the zone that they can adventure literally anywhere. Its not like 20th level characters are actually that much better than 10th level ones most of the time.
When copying a spell, the Write spell is needed to accomplish the task and when the spell is a higher level than the magic-user understands, the bonus decreases as the spell levels get higher: Write (Evocation) Level: 1 Components: V, S, M Range: 0 Casting Time: 1 round Duration: 1 hour/level Saving Throw: Special Area of Effect: One magical spell inscription Explanation/Description: By means of this spell a magic-user might be able to inscribe a spell he or she cannot understand at the time (due to level or lack of sufficient intelligence) into the tome or other compilation he or she employs to maintain a library of spells. The magic-user must make a saving throw versus magic to attempt the writing of any spell, +2 if it is only up to 1 level greater than he or she currently uses, 0 at 2 levels higher, and -1 per level from 3 levels higher onwards. If this throw fails, the magic user is subject to 1d4 of damage for every level of the spell he or she was attempting to transcribe into his or her magic book, and furthermore be knocked unconscious for a like number of turns. This damage, if not fatal, can only be healed at the rate of 1-4 points per day, as it is damage to psyche and body. Furthermore, a spell will take 1 hour per level to transcribe in this fashion, and during this period, the magic user is in a trance state and can always be surprised by any foe. In addition to the writing surface upon which the spell is to be transcribed, the spell caster needs a fine ink composed of rare substances (minimum cost 200 g.p. per bottle, if available at all without manufacture by the magic-user).
Just came across an old post showing how&nbsp; a wandering monster encounter's creature is situated to the party when encountered, which I wanted to re-write and put here for reference: First the number of yards away is rolled: For example&nbsp; [[2d4 * 10]] yards roll (taken from WG6) Also, a 1d6, determines, if the monster is 1=mating, 2=foraging, 3=hunting prey, 4= fighting another creature, 5=roaming, 6=resting / nesting, protecting the young. (If the module does not already state the creature's actions.) A 1d8 determines direction from party, example 1=North, 4=South East, etc, the creature is. And another 1d8 determines the wind direction, (mainly for determining if the creature senses the party before being seen).